Including Native extensions on OSX

01 Jun

Including Native extensions on OSX

Making a small GUI project that controls some hardware today and stubled upon a bug that I solved when using the neat COM-port extension for AIR by Nick Kwiatkowski.

I got the following error upon compiling:

Process terminated without establishing connection to debugger.
Not supported native extensions profile

This comes from the AIR project being set to target all platforms by default. By adding the "supportedProfiles" tag in the application XML, the problem will disappear:


This solves the first problem, but you'll most likely get another one:

Process terminated without establishing connection to debugger.
The content cannot be loaded because there was a problem loading an extension: Error: Requested extension com.quetwo.Arduino.ArduinoConnector could not be found.

This comes from the Native Extension not being included with the project by default. Right click your Project -> Properties -> Actionscript Build Packaging -> Native Extensions and check the checkbox under Package. Flash Builder may incorrectly claim that "This ANE is not used in the application". If all goes well, your project should now compile.

Also be sure to read the old FAQ on Google Code to get your Arduino Connector project up and running on both Windows and Mac as you'll find that the DLLs pthreadGC2.dll and libgcc_s_dw2-1.dll are required.

Filament review: Printing with potatoes?

26 Apr

Filament review: Printing with potatoes?

One thing that fascinate people about 3D printing is the fact that the PLA plastic we often use as material is made from Corn. Now you can get a bioplastic made from potatoes as well! In this review of the bioplastic called Biome3D I'll highlight how it prints and how it differs from other materials. It has some quite useful properties!

The majority of PLA available comes from the company Natureworks. They sell the raw material to plastic manufacturers that add colorants and other chemicals to achieve their desired properties. The Corn based PLA most often used for 3D printing is the Ingeo 4043d grade but you can find other variants and producers.

The potato based bioplastic I'm testing here, is made in the UK by the company Biome Plastics and it's primarily sold through the website 3DomFilaments. I initially purchased some samples, but I picked up a couple more rolls since I wanted to test some more.

Not as brittle

The first thing I noticed is that it's nowhere as brittle as PLA. This is a major advantage. When you take a piece of the filament and bend it, it acts more like ABS. It bends and becomes more white in color. You won't break it until you bend 10-12 times. The material is strong and allows quite some bending before it breaks. It's not anywhere as tough as PET though, but much more suited than corn based PLA for applications that will be experiencing any degree of flexing. It is still stiff and solid and it barely shrinks at all. 

When printing, the layers bond really well and I can extrude it nicely all the way down to 175C - a very low temperature for my printer. It also has a nice, matte shine to it and theres basically no smell when heating the material. What I find the most fascinating about this material is how different it looks from other filaments when extruded!

Different consistency

When this material flows out of the nozzle, it behaves different than other 3D printing filaments I have. If you just push material out of the extruder, it will not hang as a nice, thin string. Instead, it will become a "lump" that gets a "skin", but keeps filling from the inside with hot material until the lump becomes so heavy that it falls off and create a new lump. Check the video below to see what I mean.

In other words, this material seem to "store" heat longer than other filaments. You can very much feel that if you try to squeeze one of the lumps of plastic that fall down.

The Biome 3D filament goes soft at 80-90 degrees, but you can print it at much lower temperatures than most other materials. As can be seen from all the horizontal stripes in the picture at the top here, cooling is essential. My printer is currently in the middle of a conversion to dual Flex3Drive (Writeup on this brilliant tech soon!) so I barely have any cooling. This shows clearly as lines along the prints. Lowering the temperature helps a lot and it prints well down to rather low temperatures.

Post processing!

This stuff can be sanded! Normal PLA will melt as soon as you start sanding or polishing it, but the Biome material seems to have a high enough Glass Transition temp that you can actually work it quite a bit before it deforms. That means that normal sanding is possible, but also tumbling with various mediums.

As can be seen above - my lack of cooling causes stripes in the print. I didn't sand the piece in the middle all the way down as the grooves were quite deep, but you can see how well it works. PLA will heat up and melt as soon as you sand it, but the Biome 3D filament holds up well as long as you don't repeatedly sand the same spot. I was even able to sand it using a Dremel as long as I kept moving to allow some cooling. It is impossible to polish the material to a shine like you can for ABS as it's matte by nature. I have not tested how well paint sticks, but I'll do a test and add that here later.

I can't find a proper datasheet, but the ability to sand the parts made me think that the Glass Transition temp was higher than the 70C typical for other PLA and lower than the 110C for ABS. I did some testing by submerging a printed part in 70C tap water. This revealed that it does indeed deform at this temperature and it also deformed at 60C. At 55C the object held up, so a Glass Transition temperature of 60C seems likely. That's actually lower than some PLA variants and makes it unsuited for parts that are exposed to heat. In other words - this won't replace ABS as a way to print spare parts for your dishwasher or similar tasks.

I also tried flame polishing the material. It does bring out a gloss but it's extremely hard to not apply too much heat. Since the heat builds up inside the material, I managed to get what looked like a perfect finish, but then after a few seconds it looked like above. The heat in the material kept melting it... I also tried to treat it with acetone, but it has no visual effect. It does however seem to dissolve the plastic to some degree.

All golden?

Now this seems all very cool, but there must be some negative things also? Of course there is, but they're not that bad. If you follow the manufacturers recommendation and use a heated bed at 60-70C, you'll see the prints sag at the bottom (Elephant's foot). I've actually seen this in all my prints to some degree, despite lowering the bed temperature to 40C. Like said before - a lot of cooling is required when printing with this plastic as heat is "stored" in the plastic. In other words - extra fans may be required.

Another thing that might be more of a problem is the inconsistencies I found with the spooled material. The diameter was quite consistent (+/- 0.2mm on my 2.85mm filament), but I had one case where it was way above normal (3.2mm). The material is spooled in a way so that it does not unspool perfectly. Towards the end of the roll it actually managed to pull my extruder back across half the build platform when the steppers turned off. This is probably easy to remedy and they've just started producing filament so they'll surely fix this. They should however also fix this:

Melted onto the filament was a lump of plastic from the production. This would have ruined the print on any printer. I happened to notice it, but you really don't want to see stuff like this. The material comes in the colors white, black, red, yellow, blue, green and pink so the selection isn't exactly stellar, but this is sufficient for many. Only opaque colors exist for now, so no translucent yet. When I purchased, I was first sent 1.75mm plastic despite ordering 3mm. As a compensation, they gave me half a roll of another color - so while the webshop isn't completely routined, they do offer good customer service.

In other words - I like the filament, but they need to ensure the quality is consistent. With that, I think this can be a good replacement for the fossil ABS filaments. I especially like that you can sand it and that it's more flexible than ABS/PLA!

BAMM settings for Biome3D filament

The BAM Makeblock printer has a Flex3Drive extruder with a Hexagon nozzle. I use the following settings with this material:

  • Temperature: 175-190C
  • Speed: 50-100mm/sec
  • Retraction: 2.5mm
  • Extruder tension: normal
  • Heated bed: 40C
  • Fan: full (& then some)


Beta testing for Makeblock

01 Apr

Beta testing for Makeblock

Some weeks ago, I was asked by Makeblock if I wanted to review a kit that they are putting on Kickstarter? I guess they asked my since I've written about some of my other Makeblock experiences and use it for most of my robotic projects, and of course I wouldn't mind testing out something new. But - I got an idea - who better to test it than my 10 year old daughter Vera? They liked the idea and sent the kit off.

Disclaimer: the kit was given to me, but because of Norwegian customs regulations it is impossible to get anything "for review purposes". Due to that, I had to pay both handling fees & vat of the theoretical price, making it a fairly expensive project, but hey - I get some quality time with my daughter & she get's to make another robot!

First day - rough start

The kit came in one of those nice, blue Makeblock boxes that I have a few of already. As soon as the courier arrived with the package, my daughter started asking what day we were building? Due to family plans, the first day of building took a few weeks to work out. 

The kit is quite impressive when you lay out all the parts - stepper motors, beams, wheels, nuts-n-bolts, electronics, sensors.... It's a really solid kit and it is the foundation of no less than 4 different robots. It's quite an ingenius little kit in that it contains all the kinds of drawing robots that you'd want to build - a pantograph arm-style robot (mScara), a Polargraph wall-drawing robot (mSpider), an egg-bot for drawing on round objects (mEggBot) & a PenBot (mCar, same kind as the NITH Penbot I designed some years back). Vera very soon found out that she wanted to build the mScara robot first!

The day arrived and Vera thoroughly liked hanging at Bitraf (my local hackerspace) a whole day while building! The deal was - she would test the kit and I would sit next to her working on something else. If she got a problem, she would ask me for advice. Turns out, she needed a lot of help. The reason? We only had a video of the robot being dis-assembled and no instructions on how to build it. I contacted Makeblock and they said that unfortunately that wasn't finished yet but we could get it very soon. 

Oh well. It was after all Saturday so she had candies while she mounted the electronics and peeled the foil off the plastic parts. We had planned another build-day and this was after all a Beta test, so we could not expect it all to go perfectly smooth.

Second day - success!

About two weeks later, we had another build-day at the hackerspace and this time we had instructions! This day, Vera kept building and only asked me twice for advice so the instructions were rather good! The only things she asked about where "Do I use this length or this length screws" and other simple things. At the end of the day, we got the robot working and she chould start drawing!

We'll keep exploring the kit in the weeks to come, but we really like it already. Vera's reaction to opening it was that of a kid opening a massive box of candies and the software makes it a breeze to change between robot configurations. Vera did not think it was difficult to build the robot at all. She has a little LEGO experience that I think came in handy, but I think this kit would work for all kids that enjoys tinkering and building.

Judging by the Kickstarter campaign, it's not just Vera & I that thinks this is a cool kit! For now they've reached their goal and it's well on it's way to reaching the first stretch goal of $100.000 grin

ESP8266 and stability

24 Mar

ESP8266 and stability

Like many others in the Maker Community I've spent a lot of time playing with the dirt cheap ESP8266 wifi chip. It is the cheapest way to add wifi to your project and it's easy to get hold of. My hope was that it would be solid enough that I couldbuild permanent installations and fun Internet Of Things (IoT) devices with it, but the darn thing keeps crashing. I've been testing it since the 0.91 firmware and all the way up to the current 1.0 version and it's not possible to keep the device running for a prolonged period of time.

I've spent more than a weeks worth of time getting it to not crash at random intervals, so I thought I'd share what I've learned in case others find it useful.

Setting up for development

The best way to hook up these dev boards is to use the ESPlorer software (java) and getting a USB to Serial converter. If you have a version that offers 3.3V on both data and power lines (such as this one), it is the most convenient. If you can't find a 5V USB to Serial, you should know that the Serial pins (RX/TX) are supposedly 5V tolerant, but the power must be 3.3V or you will fry the chip. The ESP modules will pull a couple hundred mA, so powering it from a good 3.3V power source such as a LM1117 / LD33 can be a good idea.

There's many guides to hooking up the various development boards, so I won't detail that part, but lets look at the software side of things! When you buy the ESP-01 breakout boards from ebay, you never know what version of the firmware it comes with. Most likely it will be an old one so you'll probably want to update it. But - what firmware should you use?


NodeMCU is a firmware that adds a LUA layer on top of the (somewhat stable) official 0.95 Espressif SDK. This seems to be the most stable firmware you can currently use and it is also the one that is the easiest to get started with. It is well documented and offers good tools. Rui Santos has a great guide for hooking up an ESP-01, burn the NodeMCU firmware and setting it up as a webserver.

Briefly said, you hook up the ESP directly to a USB to Serial converter (3.3V!), download the NodeMCU Flasher tool, select the COM port and hit the Flash Button.

When that is done, download the ESPlorer software to talk to it. LUA is a very straightforward language to learn and if you're used to closures like in Javascript, you'll feel right at home. NodeMCU has a nice, documented API and several libraries that you can add for special hardware like LCD's, WS2812/2811 LEDs, sensors and more.

The NodeMCU firmware is based on the original Espressif SDK and thus inherits all the bugs it comes with. This means that the hardware will crash just as often, but since it always restarts after a crash, it will re-run your LUA script on startup. This makes NodeMCU good enough for devices that will just send some sensor data to a webservice such as Thingspeak. It will not work as an access point doubling as a webserver though. It'll crash and hang just as often as with the original firmware, so for me this is a showstopper. I want to make IoT gadgets that serve up a web interface as well as an open API.

Stock firmwares

Updating the firmware is quite easy if you use the NodeMCU Flasher. This has a nice, minimal GUI and everything is point and click. It's Windows only though, so if you like Python, check out the esptool. All the officially Espressif SDK's contain a "bin"-folder that has the precompiled files and a text description of what memory addresses to copy each .bin file into.

My initial idea was to use the UART in the ESP boards with a Microcontroller. Most my projects are based around the Teensy 3.1 and since it has 3 serial ports, so it's a breeze to do UART communications with. However, no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't make it 100% stable. After a few hours, it just crashed and restarted. It could run fine over night, but it would always crash after some usage. If there was a lot of traffic, it would crash more often and my intent was to basically bombard it with data continuously. I tried all the different versions of the firmware and even the official 1.0 version that was released this week is buggy beyond repair. It is actually so buggy that Espressif recently started an official bug-hunt...

That pretty much rules out using the official firmwares. How about making your own then? Espressif provides an SDK and the required code to compile your own version. Building it yourself is quite easy if you have a Ubuntu VM. Just follow the instructions outlined here. This will however not solve all your problems. Some of the codebase is Open Source, but other parts are provided as "binary blobs" so you can't really know what bugs are hiding inside. You can however exclude those parts of the Espressif SDK that you suspect to be causing the problems, so if want to program the ESP8266 directly check this neat guide on Hackaday.


This "Transparent Bridge" is the solution I'm currently experimenting with. It's a completely dumbed down firmware that can take a TCP connection on any port and relay it to the Serial port (RX/TX). Just apply power, connect to the WiFi access point that it sets up, Telnet to the default address and you can set it up to join your local network / access point. You can then up the BAUD rate to whatever you want/need and change the Port to for example 80 to make it work easily with browsers.

Anything sent to the ESP will then show up on the Serial connection. When you write back to a connection, you can serve data (like a webpage). Currently, this seems to be the most promising solution, but it requires some more testing. The basic idea is to use as little as possible of the buggy Espressif SDK as possible. To get the ESP Transparent Bridge firmware onto the device, just load the premade .bin files using the NodeMCU Flasher tool like this:

I'll post back here when I have more details & results on this setup.

But why care if it's buggy?

You might ask yourself - why on earth should one care about this chip if it is so buggy the creator has to host a competition to find all the bugs? The thing is - at $2 you can put wifi into ANYTHING! A typical wifi-shield for an Arduino will cost you from $30 and up to $90. Just a plain breakout board from Adafruit will cost you $35 and the CC3000 that it's based on isn't exactly stable either. A $2 chip that works would open up so many possibilities, so that's why I still care after fiddling this much with it.

A little about the hardware

I presume that you already know a bit about the hardware if you're reading this. If not, here's some details. The ESP8266 is a small powerhouse and this is a small 101 on the hardware. It's an ARM processor that runs at 80Mhz and can be overclocked to the double. It has up to 16 GPIO pins available and it does SPI, I2C, UART & more in hardware (fast!). It offers great range and you can get one for as low as $2 on ebay. Physically, it is a tiny 5 x 5 mm Integrated Circuit that needs a little supportive components around it to be useful. There is a series of dev-boards that offers this: ESP-1, ESP-2, ESP-3, ESP-4, ESP-5, ESP-6, ESP-7 and so on, all the way up to ESP-12. They differ with regards to pin spacing, internal/external antenna and the number of GPIO pins broken out. It was hard to locate all the pinout diagrams, so I've gathered them all in a github repository that I'll fill with useful code and resources. The original datasheets has some decent info, but check the ESP8266 wiki for more details.

The ESP-1 is typically the cheapest and most available. It only has 2 I/O pins broken out and uses 2.54mm headers. They are however clumsily combined into a 2x4 arrangement making them impossible to breadboard. It's not hard to make an adapter, but the ESP-2 is more practical for breadboard use. This also has a third I/O pin broken out, but requires an external antenna. The different versions all offer useful features, but the ones to avoid are ESP-5 and ESP-10. These do not have the pins required for updating the firmware exposed.

The version that seems to attract the community is ESP-12. It has FCC certification, RF-shielding, ADC and 9 GPIO's. It is included in the NodeMCU devkit that you can now get from TronixLabs and several other Open Hardware vendors. I'm looking forward to getting a couple of these to play around with. Other devboards that look interesting are the new one's from Olimex.


Spark Core shows solid magenta LED

12 Mar

Spark Core shows solid magenta LED

I've been head deep into a great game-project where I'm using UNO & Fuse for the first time on a commercial project. Before this, I spent about two weeks making a nice LED sign that will be used at Bitraf above our mini-hackerspace-shop called Bitmart. I want to be able to control this using any phone so I spent a solid amount of time getting various ESP8266 boards play nice with a Teensy 3.1. That turned out to be a nightmare. I originally intended to make a library around it, but I gave up. They are simply too buggy and running the auto-update makes it corrupt itself, so I now have 4 dead once's that I'll have to flash.

How hard can it be? I tried using the CC3000 from Adafruit with the Teensy instead. It went better, but it did by no means become very stable. Turns out the CC3000 chip is so buggy that even the makers (TI) have given up on it. Too bad that I bought 3 of these boards then... What next? Well, work took over and now that I'm wrapping up the game project, I'm back to this project again. What next?

Spark Core

I've done 45+ Kickstarters and some of them have been for Arduino-like things. One of these is the Spark Core. I never played around with it when I got it, but figured I'd check if that could solve my wifi problems. The Spark Core also has a cc3000 chip, but it's all in one board with an ARM M3 processor to control it. Since the release, the Spark team has put out two new products (Photon + Electron), but since they're making a living from their first product (for now) they've ironed out some of the Wifi problems with the CC3000.

So I followed the instructions and .... nothing. The "smart-app" wasn't smart enough. I updated the Core via USB / terminal so it had my wifi-credentials, but it failed to connect. The LED went from white, green, white and then solid magenta. This state isn't described in the docs so I asked via their forums. Within 15 minutes I got the info that I needed - since my core was an early version, it did not have the required firmware to connect to my WEP2 wifi. A firmware update would solve this.

Updating the Spark Core and DFU mode

To install the command line tools, I had to clean out a very old version of Homebrew from my Mac, but from there it was smooth sailing. First follow the instructions on setting up the development environment (Node.js, npm, homebrew, spark software) then follow the "Deep Update" instructions. To put the Core in DFU-mode (to allow firmware updates) You have to hold both buttons and then release the Reset-button. This will make it blink yellow so you can do the update:

    spark flash --usb deep_update_2014_06 

After running the update, I could then connect it and use it. Thanks to ScruffR for the solution! Posting it here for Google to grab it as I didn't get any good search results solving this.

Nice to have both wifi and MCU on one vs two boards! Teensy 3.1 with an ESP8266 in the back, Spark Core in front.

Unpacking the Titan 1

16 Jan

Unpacking the Titan 1

I just received my fourth 3D printer and the first to use SLA technology. I've followed maybe ten 3D printer projects on Kickstarter, but Titan1 is the first one where I have actually ordered a device. On the other one's I've just been part to follow the project and see if they're posting "the right things" and this was the first vendor to gain my trust. As opposed to most other KS printers, the people from Kudo3D kept posting different reviews of materials and showcased prints.

But without any further ado - here's my unpacking of the printer!

Boxes ahoy!

I received two boxes and for once it was actually true that they didn't fit inside my rather large mailbox. The smaller box contained the printing resin from MakerJuice. The big one contained the printer itself in a nicely packaged box. The upper layer had slots for the Z-stage, two brackets, the RAMPS & some tools.

Beneath this upper layer was the printer-case itself along with a white box containing tools, cables and the red acrylic enclosure:

The printer enclosure was jammed full of other boxes that fit snugly.

I pulled it all out and spread it across the table and here's what the different parts are (click to enlarge):

1. Acer DLP projector
2. Two PSP containers
3. Solid case based on 20mm T-slot extrusion and panels that you just click on/off.
4. MakerJuice! The four bottles of printing resin that I ordered extra.
5. A standard Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega controller is used to move the Z-stage.
6. Pre-mounted Z-stage
7. Brush + small air pump for cleaning away dust.
8. Mounting brackets.
9. Starter kit (detailed in next image)

10. 12V/5A power supply
11. Red tape for joining the acrylic pieces
12. American Power cord? Oh well, I have one spare but this one had actually been damaged (pins displaced)
13. Tiny foldable funnel
14. Spare mounting brackets for the T-slot case. One of these + a screw had come loose during transport.
15. Case fan
16. Calibration Ruler
17. Parts for the red, acrylic enclosure
18. "Leveling feet", a fancy plate consisting of a sandwitch of plastic & metal.
19. Hex wrench for case
20. Knob
21. DB9 serial cable extension
22. Feet for the case
23. Flush cutter. Looks good!
24. Tweezers & a stanley knife blade. No knife though?
25. Triangular level
26. Metal spatula
27. Nuts and bolts
28. USB to Serial cable
29. HDMI cable for the projector
30. USB type A cable

I'm really looking forward to get this up and running over the weekend. There should also have been a UV lamp in the package to use when curing the prints as they come put of the printer. I'll email the support dept and check where that one has gone. As usual there's more pictures on my Tumblr page.

Filament review: PlastInk Rubber

05 Jan

Filament review: PlastInk Rubber

This flexible plastic filament from the Italian company PlastInk has been on my desk for a while and it's quite interesting! It's flexible, has massive friction and behaves like Nylon in many ways.

They actually don't call it plastic, but rather rubber. I wouldn't say it behaves like Rubber in any way, but it has some properties that make the comparison valid. The plastic prints with a nice shine and I've not experienced any dimensional deviations (2.85mm).

How Flexible is it?

The Flex is nowhere near as flexible as NinjaFlex. NinjaFlex will typically go back to it's original shape, but while this plastic stretches, it will loose it's shape if pulled really hard. It can stretch to 2-3 times it's own length before breaking, but actually breaking it is really difficult as it's super strong! It is so strong it's hard to cut the 3mm thread with just scissors and in this regard, it is quite comparable to Nylon. It's actually so solid that proper pliers are required!

It bends nicely, so it's not rigid like PLA & ABS, but is also extremely solid. I'd say it behaves something in between PETG and Ninjaflex, but more towards the PETG side. It's very different than PETG though. It has such an extreme friction that you have to spool it so it feeds nicely into the printer. If you don't, the plastic will get stuck in all possible parts of the printer. It simply must be on a spool as it doesn't slide - even on a hard surface. This frictional property is quite unique and makes it a good choice for printing grips and tool handles. This is also how it compares the most to rubber.

How does it print?

When spooled, this filament is very print-friendly. It can be almost as strong as Nylon, but it's more flexible. It can go fairly low in temp and does not warp very much. It is however rather hard to make large prints stick on glass with glue, so you'll have to use the heated bed & print with a brim so that the heat sucks it down.

I've printed this rim with several plastics. It's a good test-object as it has both solid and flexible parts. In PETG it's hard. In Nylon it can flex a bit but is quite hard. In Ninjaflex it is uselessly soft. With Plastink - it's something in between the NinjaFlex and Nylon. Thicker parts are stiff, but thinner parts are rather flexible. I still think Nylon is right for the rim's, but I like how the Plastink plastic feels! Very little stringing overall. It's also interesting to note that this filament does not require you to print slowly like NinjaFlex does. Despite it's frictional properties, it's stiff enough to print with bowden systems as long as the tube is Teflon / PTFE.

Surface finishing

One important thing I found out is that you can actually torch this plastic with a burner to get a smoother surface. You'll need to be careful doing this as it's very easy to apply the flame for too long, but if done carefully you can get some quite smooth results. Applying acetone to it seems to do very little. I put a sample in a small bottle of acetone, and there's no sign of it dissolving in any way. I can't seem to find a datasheet for the material, but it would have been really interesting to see what this is based on given it's resistance to acetone.

Skatefins printed with Plastink's white Rubber - seemed like a great idea for solidity, but the frictional properties really work against it being suitable.

Versions available

I initially got a couple small samples from the vendor, but found it so interesting that I wanted to test some more. I found an extra roll in the webshop and picked it up with some other original Arduino gear I needed.

The filament from Plastink comes in just 7 basic colors (Black, Blue, Red, Green, White, Yellow & Clear), but the exact same colors exist for Flex, PLA & ABS. This is very interesting when thinking about multi-material objects as you can make parts that look like a solid, single colored part, but has elements that can flex. I especially find the Crystal (transparent) rubber fascinating even though I have not tried it yet.

I was also sent samples of the PLA & ABS. I only tested the PLA and it behaved nicely, just like other high quality PLA I have. They've also just launched a series of metallic colored PLA that looks interesting. Despite a loack of information regarding the origins of the plastic, I just got an email that suggested that the plastic is produced by - a manufacturer of guitar strings. That could explain the nylon-like properties & strength.

BAMM settings for Plastink Rubber

The BAM Makeblock printer has a BulldogXL extruder with a Hexagon nozzle. I use the following settings with this material:

  • Temperature: 220C
  • Speed: 50-70mm/sec (can certainly go faster)
  • Retraction: 2.5mm @ 20mm/sec
  • Extruder tension: screws 2mm out
  • Heated bed: 50C
  • Fan: full


Filament review: ColorFabb PLA-PHA variables

23 Dec

Filament review: ColorFabb PLA-PHA variables

This is the filament I have the most experience with, on both good and bad. I purchased my first rolls 1.5 years ago. I had worked really hard for a long time and thought that I would reward myself with some prime quality filament so I stocked up on 10 rolls of all the colors I wanted!

Up until buying from ColorFabb, I had only used filament from high quality vendors like Faberdashery, Diamond Age and Ultimachine. Given all the positive comments I'd seen from others I expected the same (or maybe even better?) from this Dutch vendor. I was wrong. Months of clogged extruders ensued.

The cost of troubleshooting

I purchased spare parts for several hundred Euros from Ultimaker, just so I could exclude that as being the problem. I practically rebuilt the entire extrusion system without being able to solve the clogs. I even went as far to buy a proper Fluke HWAC multimeter so that I could measure temperatures properly. I also incorrectly blamed Ultimaker & Cura for some of the issues hmmm

Tons of tests...

I eventually came down to the conclusion that the clogs came from inconsistent diameters (sometimes above 3mm, far from 2.85mm) and very varying quality of the plastic. For most plugs I'd find some black thing at the nozzle tip while cleaning it out. I should point out that cleaning out an ultimaker isn't very simple as you'll often have to disassemble half the print head. Not a fun task to do several times a day, especially since I also printed 800+ meters of Faberdashery plastic on the same printer without a single filament error...

Replacement rolls

I wrote several polite emails with the support crew at ColorFabb and I have to say their support is really stellar. Nothing to complain about there. They told me that both the formulation & diameter had been off on several of the early rolls, and offered to replace all my rolls with new filament at no cost. That's pretty good service?

Problem was - when I got the rolls, some of them were better but by no means all. Argh... I've paid almost 450 EUR for those rolls, I have to make them work! After a lot of testing & rebuilds of extrusion system on my Ultimaker, I came to the conclusion that the only way I could print with them was going far above the recommended 210C. Even then it would clog now and then if I tried to go too fast. Others at my hackerspace had similar experiences, but a friend using 1.75mm Colorfabb filament never has issues? My Ultimaker Original is equipped with a 100% original extrusion system and the only speciality is the added dual extruder & heated bed. None of these should have any effect on the printing.

New printer, new problems

I solved most my ColorFabb problems by printing really hot and cooling the Ultimaker hotend down with an extra fan as I printed. If I tried to go anywhere near their official recommendation, the printer would clog right away. This worked so well that when I built my new printer, I was completely flabbergasted when I got similar problems here. The new printer had an E3D hotend that I had heard tons of positive feedback on. As soon as I added ColorFabb's PLA/PHA, the printer choked unless I printed at 20-30C above the recommendation.

After a month of trying to solve the problem without using extra heat, I gave up. I then realised that my roll of Ultra Marine Blue didn't have a consistent color? The color varied quite a bit along the roll. I contacted ColorFabb and yet again they replaced the roll. Excellent service, and this time half the roll have printed nicely. Strange?

Tangles! I never had that with any other vendor of plastic on spools hmmm

The PLA / PHA combo has major differences from other vendors. One is the addition of PHA, another bioplastic. It is apparently this that gives this PLA it's shine and makes it less brittle than other PLA. I'm by no means an expert on bioplastics, but there is something that makes this PLA/PHA mix more prone to stick to the inside walls of the extruder. Most often, you'll pull this buildup out with the filament after a blockage, but some will remain and must be removed with the "Atomic pull" method.

I've learned that most industry players use PLA from NatureWorks. ColorFabb buys their PLA from FKuR Kunststoff in Germany. I dunno what to say other than that it has some other (and less desirable) properties than the NatureWorks PLA. ColorFabb did however tell me that they only use NatureWorks PLA in their transparent PLA filaments and sure enough - it performs a lot better.

Colorfabb's response

ColorFabb says that the printer settings may vary (even among the same model) and that their recommendations can't work for everyone. I must say that I find frustrating to hear that from a vendor when all my 3 printers (PrintbotJr, Ultimaker Original, BAMM) as well as friends printers need to go to the same high temperatures to extrude it well. What makes this even more frustrating is that companies like MadeSolid publish guidelines for lots of printers and these worked for me right away?

I am now printing successfully with PETG from MadeSolid, PLA from Faberdashery, some really old ABS from Makerbot (back when they made 3mm filament), ABS from Protoparadigm, Proto-pasta's carbon fibre infused PLA, 2 year old PLA from Diamond Age, NinjaFlex, PLA/ABS/flexible rubber from PlastInk, PLA from Ultimaker and even Taulman 618/645 Nylon. Not a single blockage with any of these, but as soon as I insert the PLA/PHA mix from Colorfabb, my extruder will clog up. How fast this happens will vary, but I can't trust it for longer prints.

I just had to throw away two entire rolls of white PLA/PHA since the quality was so inconsistent that the layer height varied so much it was clearly visible (see below). Printing the same object with the same settings using Silver colored Ultimaker PLA gives me excellent looking results:

They're so different that you'd think it was printed on two different printers? This really is a shame as my two black rolls of PLA/PHA (made the same month!) will produce great looking results, even at fairly low temperatures???

I have completely given up on ColorFabb and it's a shame as they make so many cool things such as WoodFill, CopperFill & BronceFill. I just can't afford to spend more time on it as I've easily spent more than 100 hours cleaning out nozzles, solving clogs and failed prints. That's bad for business and not what I'd call "production quality". It's simply too inconsistent. I have a "trick" of working with it that "sort of" works and that's doing 5-6 atomic pull's with Taulman 645 Nylon before anything more than tiny prints. I'm also printing at speeds far higher than I like (due to the mass of the 30x30cm heated bed). This causes bandings in the prints, but then at least I can use the filament rather than just throw it away. It'll still get me plenty of jammed nozzles though.

Since MadeSolid now sells 15 different colors, so I'll get my PETG from them instead. As for PLA - rumours say that Faberdashery will soon begin shipping their 28 different plastics on spools. I guess I might buy my xmas filament from them instead.

BAMM settings for ColorFabb PLA/PHA

The BAM Makeblock printer has a BulldogXL extruder with a Hexagon nozzle. I use the following settings with PLA/PHA from ColorFabb:

  • Temperature: 220-240C
  • Speed: 70mm/sec (faster = less jams / clogs)
  • Retraction: 1.5mm @ 20mm/sec (less retraction = less deposits)
  • Extruder tension: screws 0.0mm out (solid pressure)
  • Heated bed: 50C
  • Fan: full (to compensate for excessive temp required to prevent plugs)


Teaching with robots

20 Oct

Teaching with robots

The last two years I've done a course in at Westerdals Oslo School of Art, Communication and Technology (formerly NITH). The school offers Bachelor & Master studies in informatics and I've been brought in as a teacher on the topic of Embedded Systems. The course (200 hrs total) is a volunteer topic for third year students that covers all the basic use of Microcontrollers as well as some Embedded Linux.

It's been a great experience and I get to play santa - giving students a customised version of this kit. 4Tronix have been very helpful in making me a super Arduino-kit that covers the entire curriculum at a price that the school can live with. The only part of the curriculum that isn't covered by this kit is robotics and motor control. This year I think I've found a near perfect solution that I though I'd share with other educators.


Filament review: NinjaFlex rocks!

06 Oct

Filament review: NinjaFlex rocks!

I've been meaning to test the flexible NinjaFlex materials, but having an Ultimaker made that impossible. Flexible filaments and bowden tubes don't play well as the friction of the plastic makes it curl and stop. With the new BAM printer, I have a direct extruder mounted just above the hotend. This is the ideal setup for flexible filaments and with the newly fitted Bulldog XL extruder it's a snap to change materials.

It's incredibly strong!

I can't quite get over how solid objects printed with NinjaFlex are. They're soft in that they can be curled together, but will regain their shape easily. If you print a single wall of NinjaFlex (0.4mm thick) it will take a lot of force to tear it apart. My first print was exactly that - a single wall stretchlet.

My first reaction was how soft it felt? Then I tried to tear it apart and I failed? I gave it to my teenager son, but he also couldn't tear it apart. I then put my foot on it and pulled with full force by two hands... It expanded to 5-8 times the original length and then snapped just like a rubber band. Only when it snapped (main image) could you see any sign of layer separation. Amazing stuff!

Uses for flexible materials

The elasticity offers some very desirable properties. For instance, a 2-perimeter bracelet can also be used as a hair band in a crisis. It is perfect for making noise dampening rubber feet for your Makeblock printer, BMX grips, phone bumpers and RC tyres. Fenner Drives that makes the NinjaFlex filament, recently came out with more colors including silver & gold! I'm really looking forward to play more with this filament. I picked mine up from E3D along with other parts, but you can find it many places.

BAM printer settings

The BAM Makeblock printer has a BulldogXL extruder with a Hexagon nozzle. I use the following settings with Ninjaflex:

  • Temperature: 220C
  • Speed: <= 30mm/sec
  • Retraction: 2.5mm @ 20mm/sec
  • Extruder tension: screws 2mm out (almost none as friction is extremely high)
  • Heated bed: 40C
  • Fan: none

If you go faster than 30mm/sec, the plastic will curl up inside the BulldogXL extruder.